Bespoke, cut on the premises
Scroll down and we will take one jacket apart, detail by detail, so you know exactly what you are paying for before we take a single measurement.
Full canvas
Lapel roll
Working cuffs
Lining
Cloth
Chalk and baste
The chest piece is a layer of horsehair and wool canvas stitched to the cloth with thousands of small diagonal stitches. It is what lets the jacket shape to you rather than to a glue press.
Because the canvas is padded by hand, the lapel curves gently over to the top button instead of creasing flat. The edge is finished with a pick stitch you can see if you look closely.
Buttons are cut from real horn, so no two match exactly. Cuff buttonholes are functional and hand-sewn, which is why we set sleeve length before we cut them.
The lining is cupro, a breathable cellulose silk, in any colour you like. Seams are felled by hand so the inside looks as finished as the outside. Half-lined for summer cloths.
We talk in grams per square metre. Around 280 for a suit you wear daily, 340 and up for winter, under 250 for high summer. The book on the counter has about 400 options.
The white thread you can see is basting. At your first fitting the jacket is held together loosely so we can take it apart, re-chalk and re-cut. Nothing is final until the third fitting.
Cloth library
Everything below is woven for suiting, in weights we know behave. Swatches are drawn here to show the weave; the real bunches are on the counter.
The fitting schedule
Cloth, style, lining and buttons chosen. About 60 minutes.
Drawn on card from the measurements, then cut into the cloth by hand.
We mark changes in chalk and take it apart again. 30 minutes.
Sleeve length and button positions set. Trousers fitted the same day.
Final check with your shoes on. The pattern is filed for your next suit.
Prices and booking